WINDOWS
In my opinion the ornate glass windows and mirrors are some of the most important features of a showman’s wagon. Leave the glass plain and you have a model devoid of any character.
As soon as I set foot in a wagon for the very first time, I started to think about ways of reproducing glass that would look right in 1/12th scale. The first model that I made was the 1930s road wagon made from the MFD plans but there was no mention of items such as cut glass. I decided to copy the glass from the John Harris wagon at Ashington, West Sussex near to where I live. I felt sure that I was going to be able to make some glass that was going to look OK but at that time I had no idea how I was going to achieve this. It turned out far more difficult than I ever thought it would be. After fourteen years I am still looking for ways to improve on the method that I use.
For cut glass, I use acetate sheet and give the brilliant cut effect by using a very small V shaped wood carving chisel for the cutting. I start by drawing the pattern of the real glass on a piece of paper and then start to reproduce it in 1/12th scale on a piece of tracing paper. If the pattern is symmetrical, I only draw one half of it and I cannot explain why but I always draw the right hand side. I know from experience which shapes are going to be difficult or even impossible for me to cut so I use a bit of artistic licence and modify them to what I think I can manage without greatly changing the character the pattern. When I am happy with it, I fold the paper down the centre line of the pattern and trace the other half from the bit that I have just done. I always cut the acetate sheet a little larger than I really need to give me a bit of manoeuvrability in case I have not got the frame, that the glass is going in, perfectly square. I tape the pattern to the glass so that it can be clearly seen from the other side.
I have got a homemade clamp to hold the acetate in position and I can rotate it so that I can always work pushing the chisel away from me. I have not found it possible to use a mallet and I do the cutting entirely by hand, using my left hand to control the tip of the chisel and my right to apply the force to make the cut. I have found that heating the acetate softens it and makes the cutting a little easier. I do this by positioning a hair dryer in an adjustable vice over the acetate while I do the actual cutting. The problem with this is, that I need the dryer so close to the work that it burns my hand, so I wear a high quality oven glove on my left hand. Some patterns have circular cuts included and I use small round dental burrs in a hand held drill to achieve this effect.
I use the same method for cut glass mirrors but back the acetate sheet with a piece of Mirrorcard the same size as the acetate, which gives the right effect. I have tried backing it with real mirror but because the mirrored surface is on the back of the glass, it gives a double image from some angles.
I use two different methods for frosted glass. If it is just plain frosted or frosted with some brilliant cut patterns, I use acetate sheet and rub it with wet and dry paper, which gives the right effect. If there is to be a cut glass pattern, I draw it with a fairly hard grade pencil straight onto the frosted side.
For glass with patterns in various shades of frosting, I use an aerosol can of “Glass Etch” which works equally well on real glass or acetate sheet. I draw the pattern on a piece of self-adhesive stencil paper, which I attach to the acetate. Then very carefully, I cut around all of the lines of the pattern and then remove the areas, which are to be the darkest. Then apply the spray in accordance with the instructions. Then remove the lighter area pieces and spray. Finally, remove the areas, which are to remain plain.
Window detail showing carved glass
Paper pattern for carving glass
Cutting the windows for the Eccles.
Tube Shooter showing frosted glass windows.